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Latest update: 14 July 2023
I collapse on the narrow cabin bed of the Balearia boat from Barcelona to Mallorca. I can barely hold back the tears. Getting on the boat with my dog felt like entering a battlefield, and luckily no one was injured. But, for our return, I have a different tactic!
To Mallorca or Ibiza with your dog
I’ve done the research. On the Balearia boat, you can put your dog in a carrier, or you can book a pet-friendly cabin so that he can go into the cabin with you. People with dogs are the last to board because otherwise, it would be too stressful for the dog. Dangerous dogs must be muzzled; all dogs must be on a lead. Sounds pretty straightforward, right?
If you consider going to Ibiza, Mallorca, Formentera, or Menorca for a longer time, your dog can come with you. On the plane. Or on the boat. If you have a relaxed dog, that’s all fine. But for my dog, it’s a challenge. And because I would have liked to have known in advance what to expect, I am writing this blog for you. So this is my experience; you will find all the practical things in my blog about traveling by car to Mallorca or Ibiza.
Adoption dog with a shitty past
My dog has a user manual. He is a cuddler but also very fearful of just about everything. This results in barking at cyclists, scooters, tall men, people with bags, people who talk loudly, people who walk too fast, children… you name it. You can’t just take my Tadzio to an outside café or let him meet young children. So I’m always on the watch, and it’s hard work with him. Sometimes that’s difficult, sometimes frustrating, but he’s always worth it.
He is a shelter dog from Poland and has been with me since August 2020. We love each other, and I know this behavior is because of everything he’s been through. We train, and we make a little bit of progress every time. Not complaining though, I mean: look how handsome he is!
Because Tadzio has an owner with wanderlust, he occasionally has to stay with my parents. And he thinks that’s fine. But this time, I’m going to Mallorca for about five weeks (and that ended up being two months) by car, so he could come too. So with my best friend, I arranged a beautiful Airbnb, a bedroom for both of us, and an enclosed garden in a quiet area. Ideal for us and my four-legged friend.
The preparations: muzzle, medication, buggy
I’ve been training with Tadzio and a muzzle for vet visits for almost a year, but unfortunately, I haven’t succeeded yet. Now, he doesn’t fall into the category of dangerous dogs, but I can imagine that the staff on the boat would tell me to muzzle him anyway. His barks don’t sound quite friendly. So I’m definitely willing to do so if we have to, but Tadzio won’t let that happen without a fight. And, of course, I’d rather prevent that situation.
So I consulted with my vet to see if he could get something sedative. I have already tried various natural and homeopathic remedies at home, such as Zylkine. And finally, something stronger from the vet. In the house, he seems pretty impressed, but once outside, he forgets he’s on drugs. So it’s not a solution for us.
As the travel day approaches, I worry more and decide to buy an expensive dog stroller. Yup, they exist. Even with tiger print if you want. In such a dog buggy, you can secure your dog with the buckles and zip the hood shut. It is securely closed, my dog receives fewer stimuli, and he cannot harm anyone. Tadzio seems to feel like THE man when I drive him around in the buggy. So I am very hopeful that this is THE solution.
Stopover in France
We drive to Barcelona in two days. We stay one night in the south of France, unexpectedly close to the Mont Ventoux (that name should say something to the Tour de France fans among us). We can see the mountain top from our veranda and even from the swimming pool. But the weather and water are way too cold for the time of year. Nevertheless, the apartment is really lovely after a long car ride. Instant Bohème indeed gives an instant Bohemian feeling.
The next day we drive on to Barcelona. At the last gas station in France, we stop to put Tadzio in the back of the bench. Until then, he sat in the front with us in the Bipper van, but that is not allowed in Spain. We get approached by a Spanish man. He taps on our window. We open the door a bit hesitantly, and he starts his story in rapid Spanish. Ho ho ho! He slows down and explains his situation: debit card doesn’t work in France, too little petrol in his car, so he needs some money to get to the border. He wants twenty euros, but that doesn’t feel right. I give him five euros and hope he finds more people to help him. AND that he was sincere. I’d hope someone would help me out in that situation too.
Waiting for departure of the ferry to Mallorca
Anyway. Rush hour in Barcelona. Google Maps’ arrival time changes from 18.50 to 19.20, then to 19.40, and then even 19.55. In the end, we get to the Balearia harbor at 19.25. As one of the first, only three other cars are waiting ahead of us. So we have plenty of time. According to the parking attendant, we can even drive onto the boat together. I am super pleased because then it’s the two of us with my dog.
However, as the time to board approaches, chaos ensues. The parking attendant’s level of English turns out to be pretty bad (not a surprise there) because all passengers need to get out of the car and go to another location.
We came prepared, so I have the buggy. Fine. The waiting area is quite busy, and some children want to play on and around Tadzio’s spot – and my dog doesn’t like people, no children, no nothing. He’s in a buggy for a reason. So this is where the fun starts.
After a while, everyone has to go outside again. I’m waiting a bit to the side. The line doesn’t move much; it stands still even. More and more passengers show up, also with dogs. Quiet dogs. There is even a police chase. The police floor a guy a few meters away. A rather sturdy spectator comes to the rescue by jumping on him with his full weight.
It turns out that dogs are not the last to board, and all luggage has to go through a scanning machine, like at an airport, but now set up in a van. I can already feel this is not going to go well.
The security guard is not safe for my dog
While I let pretty much everyone ahead of me in the line, Tadzio gets pretty restless. If people get too close, he barks wildly. People’s reactions are funny though: they expect a baby in the buggy and get startled by my dog’s barking. I ask security whether the buggy really has to go through the scanner, and yes, it has to. Once I’m the last in line, I get the dog out of the buggy, but then the stress is already too high on all sides. And the security guard is a man AND big AND in a hurry AND comes too close. I have a scared dog on my arm going crazy, and that man still insists on getting my watch and the dog leash. Seriously?! It’s terrible. Horrible. Tadzio gasps and barks. I sweat and stress. And the security guard is scared.
On the boat full of stairs
Because I’m the last one by now, the steward chases me. Meanwhile, the car had already boarded an hour ago, and Patrick couldn’t come to me to help. Then the ferry turns out to be an enormous maze with an elevator here and there, but also stairs. Excellent – with a buggy. How do they do this with people with walking difficulties? Or people who have a wheelchair?
At the reception, we collect the entrance code for our cabin. The pet-friendly cabins are located a few decks higher, and there is no elevator. Just before departure, I collapse on the narrow cabin bed, exhausted. I can barely hold back the tears. We made it, but how?! The cabin is fine. Simple, but with a toilet and shower. Two beds for us, two trays, and a soaker mat for Tadzio. There is a deck for dogs where they can take a pee. But that’s not very attractive. You can also find the kennels here. I’m glad I paid for the cabin because it is noisy on the deck. A small dog seems to agree: he is shaking terribly in his kennel.
Because it’s late in the evening and Tadzio usually doesn’t have to pee at night, we skip the walk on the deck. Less chance of difficult confrontations and stimuli. He can hold it for a while, and I have things with me anyway to clean up any accidents. But he doesn’t want anything anymore anyway. No food, no pee. Because the lapping of the waves scares him, he snuggles up close to me, deep under the covers, and all three of us barely sleep.
The return trip: new plan for the ferry with my dog!
For the return trip, we come up with a different tactic. No way that Tadzio will have to enter the boat like this again. It’s too stressful for him (and me, haha). So I get out of the car a bit earlier on Mallorca and go to the pedestrian entrance. Tadzio is driven onto the boat by car and can then quietly pass through towards the pet-friendly cabins. Nothing to worry about, wonderfully relaxed. Sometimes you just have to bend the rules a bit! Sorry, not sorry, Balearia.
Tips for the boat trip with your dog to the Balearic Islands
Look, my dog is a complicated boy. So hopefully, it will go a lot smoother with your dog, but now you at least know what to expect: crowds, security checks, stairs, et cetera. There is nothing wrong with the facilities on the Balearia boat, and with a relaxed dog, there is really no problem.
But, before you get in the car and head that way, think about:
Check the regulations for traveling with your dog. Every country has different rules for dogs and dog owners. For example, France has no rules for transport, but your dog is not allowed to sit in the front in Spain. So determine your route in advance and look up the relevant information per country.
Get the right vaccinations. Go to the vet in time and inform yourself via the EU site. Your dog must be microchipped, vaccinated against Rabies, and have a passport in Spain.
Buy stuff. Prepare for your trip with the right gear for your dog to travel. You may also want a dog stroller (ideal for outdoor cafes, too). Be sure to check out a dog seat belt or dog leash for the car. And I love these drinking bottles.
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First published: January 2022. Updated since!
